在亞洲,至少在台灣,品嚐動物內臟是一件幸福的事,就我自己而言,豬肝湯或路邊的黑白切,是我身處國外時會朝思暮想的家鄉好滋味。
在歐洲,吃內臟,似乎是一件非常怪異且無法被普遍接受的行為;然而,葡萄牙人卻和遠在地球另一端的我們有著相似的品味 :)
Tripas,我將它自行翻譯成葡式燉"黑白切"! 一道主要由各式肉類 (培根,豬肉,豬耳朵),內臟 (牛肚),香腸 (包含血腸),紅蘿蔔,以及白豆加上各式香料 (孜然,月桂葉,巴西里...等)燉煮而成的佳餚,起源於波爾圖 (Porto):
1415年,在國王João I的要求下,Infante D. Henrique需要供應前往Ceuta的船隻軍隊所需的物資,因此要求在Oporto的居民提供所有種類的食物。然而,當時該城市所有的肉類已被清洗,醃漬,並加以儲存在甕中,只剩下被視為廢棄物的臟器,其中便包含了牛肚, "Tripas à moda do Porto" (波爾圖風格牛肚)進而應運而生,葡萄牙人也因此有了一個綽號: "tripeiros"。
我的第一次嘗試是在我家老爺家裡,他幾乎每個禮拜會從一間餐廳外帶一盒半份的"Tripas",但每次都至少可吃3-4餐以上;通常和白飯一同食用,由於加入孜然,我覺得有很種中東菜色的感覺,將橙色的醬料,壓碎燉軟的白豆,以及白飯拌在一起,是我家老爺最愛的搭配;當然,牛肚為其特色,但同時也可吃到帶有軟骨的豬耳朵,培根,以及葡萄牙式香腸及血腸,是一道相當特別的特色菜,也相信對於很多人會需要一點勇氣來嘗試,不過,在台灣人眼裡應該是再平常不過的了 :P
很可惜地,那家餐廳似乎於今年七月時歇業了,而我家老爺似乎也沒再找到他心目中合適的Tripas,然而,這道菜在許多餐廳都可看到,就給大家參考看看,下次當你造訪波爾圖並在菜單看到Tripas時,心中便有個畫面了~ 也歡迎大家若有嚐到口味不錯的,好康道相報喔!!
參考資料來源: http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tripas_%C3%A0_moda_do_Porto
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Tripas à moda do Porto
Compared with other European countries, I feel more familiar with
Portugal, and one of the reasons causing this kind of idea is the FOOD. As a
Taiwanese, it is not strange or surprising at all to eat inner organs in your
dish, but I believe this is not the case of people from most Western countries.
However, Portuguese seem to own the similar taste with us J
Tripas, a typical dish from Porto, is made by various meat (bacon,
pork, pig ears), inner organ (cow’s stomach), sausage (including blood sausage),
carrots and butter/white beans stewed with cumin, bay leaf, parsley and etc.
Legendarily, in 1415, by the request of King João I, Infante D.
Henrique had to supply military expedition to the ships for the conquer of
Ceuta. So, he asked the inhabitants of Porto for all kinds of food. However, all
meat in the city had been cleaned, salted and layered on the craft, they could
only get the population sacrificed solely for offal, including tripe. In order
to invent alternatives of Portuguese food, it resulted in the dish "Tripe
Port", and eventually has been perpetuated until today. Also, it becomes one
of the most characteristic elements in this gastronomic city. Portuguese got
the nickname "tripeiros" due to this as well.
The first time for me to try this special dish was in my boyfriend’s
house. He was used to taking away the dish of half portion from a restaurant
though it could be eaten for at least 3-4 meals. For me, because of the
addition of cumin, I found it is the dish with strong middle-east style. My
Portuguese boyfriend likes to mix the orange sauce, smashed white beans and
rice together. For sure you can taste some bizarre ingredients in someone’s
opinion in this dish, and I think if you are able to accept, it is definitely a
very special dish full of local characteristics and worth trying :)
Unfortunately, the restaurant my boyfriend used to go was closed this
July and he hasn’t yet found an ideal tripas until now, but I think it can be
seen in many restaurants in Porto. Therefore, when you visit Porto and read
tripas on the menu, you have already had a concept and image about it. And don’t
forget to tell us once you find your favorite one~
Information: http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tripas_%C3%A0_moda_do_Porto
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