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Monday, 6 October 2014

[Lu遊] 波爾圖 音樂之家- Casa da musica

音樂之家- Casa da musica

要拜訪波爾圖現代摩登的一面,除了先前介紹的Serralves museum,我想,Casa da musica也不容錯過!



這座位於波爾圖主要的音樂廳,是由荷蘭建築師- 庫哈斯 (Rem Koolhaas) 和Office for Metropolitan Architecture and Arup-AFA合作下,為了2001年歐洲文化首都 (European Culture Capital) 的計畫下所建造,不過僅於2005年完工,但隨即成為該是指標性的建築。

波爾圖音樂廳的設計則在國際上備受讚譽,紐約時報的建築評論家尼可來·奧羅索夫(Nicolai Ouroussoff)曾在文章Rem Koolhaas Learns Not to Overthink It裡說:「這是庫哈斯設計過最美的建築。」(most attractive project the architect Rem Koolhaas has ever built);以及「這棟建築充滿了感性的秀麗與熱情的智慧,兩者相當匹配」(a building whose intellectual ardor is matched by its sensual beauty),奧羅索夫並將之與洛杉磯的迪士尼音樂廳,或柏林愛樂觀眾席建案,認為波爾圖音樂廳相當有資格成為近一百年內最經典的音樂廳建築之一,代表性與地位可和畢爾包古根漢美術館(美國建築師法蘭克·蓋瑞知名作品)相提並論。

僅管波爾圖音樂廳與波爾圖古城的市容相比,似乎格格不入,但庫哈斯將音樂廳多個入口開放給民眾 (購票處在內部),並刪除了一般音樂廳拾級而上的入口方式,改為拾級而下到達接待處與購票、衣帽寄存處,觀眾更可從牆上的小孔看見演奏聽內音樂家排演的情形,內部掛滿了波爾圖古城的大圖,以寬廣的空間消除了觀眾對其外觀的壓迫感。

波爾圖音樂廳主要建料為白水泥,內部使用的座椅則以葡萄牙產量最大的軟木製成。

第一次造訪這間外型特別的音樂廳並不是為了藝術而來,而是蒞臨其餐廳!


在網路上偶然瞧見午餐時段有10歐 (2013)* 套餐,因此,某次下課後,便與班上兩位同學前往嘗試~


若沒有記錯的話,會有兩種的主菜可供選擇,此外,有麵包 (法國麵包) 搭配橄欖油,湯,而甜點需另外加價。 那天所選擇的主菜為魚排 (種類已不記得~),依稀記得外皮脆脆的,而魚肉煎得仍飽含水分,佐清爽的醬料和蔬菜,表現不凡 :) 在南歐,盛產橄欖油,因此,取麵包直接沾上,不僅可咀嚼到單純的麵粉香,亦能嘗到油的滋潤與清香!  甜點是同行的同學所點,有嘗了一口,應是苦甜的巧克力慕斯,甜而不膩!!


內部的裝潢相當新穎摩登,用餐起來相當舒適,又因為位於較高樓層,但眺望四周的景色,餐廳外還有一小片空間可供休憩,享受日光的美好!


來到波爾圖,不妨安排一天的中午至此享受景,色,味俱全的一場饗宴~

*詳細價錢已沒有在網頁上找到,建議可先行詢問餐廳人員


第二次拜訪,則是確確實實地參加了音樂廳的導覽Tour!每天的下午四點,皆有英文的導覽 (7,8月時每天多11:00一場),一人5歐,大約是一小時。


除了本身簡潔大方且設計感強烈的建築本身外,不同廳的設計更增添其特殊性,尤其是天花板,牆壁,座椅,材質的應用,角度的安排,如何讓"聽"眾或"觀"眾得到最佳"聽"覺或"視"覺的享受,都是這些設計的巧妙之處! 

參與此Tour,讓你不用買票聽音樂會也能近距離觀察,了解各個廳的設計緣由~

有一些Workshop與儀器可以讓你親自體驗聲音的奧妙! 空間裡的幾何設計與顏色角度的安排富有巧思

牆壁使用軟性材質,即使孩童奔跑也不會撞傷 (印象中為專門為孩童獨立安排的空間,讓父母能夠無所顧慮地欣賞表演!)

那次剛好也有展出中國古樂器

整個導覽中,會有解說人員訴說一些故事,讓你回到古歐洲的饗宴!

吃也吃了,逛也逛了,第三次的光臨,則是真正地進入音樂廳參加音樂會! 
受到葡語班老師的邀請,這次要欣賞的是一位來自位於非洲,前葡屬殖民地- Cape Verde的女歌手: Lura

14 Junho 2014 Lura

黑人歌手在我們的印象中,歌喉有十足爆發力,肢體表演也有一定水準,而這位女歌手也不例外! 以下為其簡介:

Lura has become the most international of Cape Verde’s singers and is regarded as Cesária Évora’s natural successor, receiving praise from all quarters. After Eclipse, one of her most relevant works, a new collection of songs will see the light of day in 2014 and promises to reinforce her talents as a composer. Her music, markedly inspired by the traditions of Cape Verde, also looks to the future, a fact that has led her to be recognised as a groundbreaking and leading exponent of traditional musics such as funaná, batuko, and morna. She promises to bring to Casa da Música hits such as “Nha Vida” and “Na Ri Na”, the unique rhythm of Cape Verde and the eternal soulfulness of her voice.

由此可知,她的曲風承襲了Cape Verde傳統的一面! 據我的葡萄牙朋友解釋,當地除了葡語,他們還講另一種本土的語言; 表演當晚,我們不僅欣賞了其極具水準的高亢歌曲表演,性感的電臀也一再地帶來高潮,帶動唱,跳的方式也讓台上台下融為一片;很特別的還有當天所安排的廳其座椅為可搖動式,讓你在欣賞表演的同時亦能隨著音樂搖擺,而前後排座椅的距離,也能讓你有足夠空間起身並釋放你的能量,體驗來自非洲歌曲的熱情與魅力!!

若在安排行程時,可以到Casa da Musica的官網看看,若可以的話,很推薦親自體驗獨特設計的建築與真實音樂會結合的滋味喔!

當天表演前,演奏廳的情形!


交通資訊:

搭地鐵至Casa da musica




資料來源: 


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Casa da musica

Modern face of Porto can indicate two artistic buildings, consisting in Serralves museum previously introduced and casa da Musica. 

Casa da Música is a major concert hall space in Porto, Portugal, designed by the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas with Office for Metropolitan Architecture and Arup-AFA, and was built as part of Porto's project for European Culture Capital in 2001 but was only finished in the first half of 2005 and immediately became an icon in the city. 

The Building engineers were Arup (London) together with Afassociados (Porto). Inside Outside (Petra Blaisse) designed the large 13 curtains, ranging from 22m x 15m to 65m x 8m, and the gold leaf wood grain pattern on the large auditorium.

Although construction ran four years over schedule and cost roughly €100M, the building process brought new engineering challenges to create its unusual configuration.

The building's design has been highly acclaimed worldwide. Nicolai Ouroussoff, architecture critic from the New York Times, classified it as the "most attractive project the architect Rem Koolhaas has ever built" and saying it's "a building whose intellectual ardor is matched by its sensual beauty". He also compares it to the "exuberant design" in Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain. "Only looking into the original aspect of the building, this is one of the most important concert halls built in the last 100 years". He compares it to the Walt Disney Concert Hall, in Los Angeles, and the Berliner Philharmonie.

For the first time, I visited Casa da Musica because of FOOD instead of MUSIC
I found there was a set of commercial lunch menu for 10 Euros (in 2013)*, including bread, soup and main course. It was such a good opportunity to not only get the experience at the top of building but also enjoy the superior cuisine. Therefore, I went there with two of my classmates after the class one day.

Usually there are two choices for the main dish in addition to the bread (French bread, soft type) with olive oil and soup. If you still have another stomach for the dessert, you may have to pay a little bit more but it should be worth according to the saying from my classmate who ordered chocolate cake afterwards. The main course we had was the fish fillet with fresh vegetable and cordial sauce, which was extraordinary. Olive oil is highly acclaimed in southern Europe, no exception to Portugal. In consequence, bread dipped with oil can make you feel the quality of flour and nourishment of oil. I also tasted one bite of chocolate cake, not too sweet and greasy at all. PERFECT ENDING :p

*: I couldn't find the reference on the website, so it is advisory to inquire the people in the restaurant in advance.



For the second time visit, I attended a guide tour to know the music hall itself. At 16:00 every day, there is an organized tour in English for 5 Euros/person, lasting around 1 hour (there should be one more at 11:00 in July and August).

The following is the brief introduction cited from Wikipedia:

Casa da Música has two main auditoriums, though many other areas of the building can very easily be adapted for concerts and other musical activity (workshops, educational activities, etc.).

1. The large auditorium has an initial capacity of 1,238 people, but can vary according to the occasion.

2. The small auditorium is tremendously flexible, and has no definite number in relation to the capacity. On average the room has capacity for 300 people sitting down, and 650 people standing, though these can drastically change depending on the size of the stage, its location, the arrangement of the chairs, the presence and size of sound and recording equipment, etc.

I highly recommended this guide tour since you will have the chance to get to know more details about the interior characteristics of this building if you don't have time or budget to attend any concert there.  

However, I was definitely lucky to know the complete aspects of Casa da Musica. Apart from FOOD and ARCHITECTURE, I also participated in a splendid concert held here. The following is the simple knowing of this singer: 

Lura has become the most international of Cape Verde’s singers and is regarded as Cesária Évora’s natural successor, receiving praise from all quarters. After Eclipse, one of her most relevant works, a new collection of songs will see the light of day in 2014 and promises to reinforce her talents as a composer. Her music, markedly inspired by the traditions of Cape Verde, also looks to the future, a fact that has led her to be recognised as a groundbreaking and leading exponent of traditional musics such as funaná, batuko, and morna. She promises to bring to Casa da Música hits such as “Nha Vida” and “Na Ri Na”, the unique rhythm of Cape Verde and the eternal soulfulness of her voice.

This singer from Cape Verde definitely brought us an amazing night combined passion with African music. The singing was invulnerable and the dancing originated from African blood with sexy butt even highlighted the whole night. Designing of the seats in the auditorium allows the audience swing with the music. Space between two rows also offers you to sway  your body. Integration of the performers and the audience was so unforgettable!!!

Next time, when you are planning to visit Porto, schedule one FEAST in Casa da Musica which may interest you if time permitted. You won't be regretted!


Information:

Metro to Casa da musica



Resources of information: 

2. Casa da Musica (http://www.casadamusica.com/




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